The ’Wiching Hour: The Beefsteak Sandwich

wichinghour_30The Sandwich: The Beefsteak Sandwich

Where: Beefsteak, 800 22nd St. NW

Price: $4.99

Bread: Olive oil brioche bun

Stuffings: Beefsteak tomato, pickled red onion, sprouts, caper-and-herb mayo, olive oil, sea salt

Thickness: 4 inches

Pros: Everything in this sandwich tastes like it was just pulled out of the ground, even though you’ll watch servers assembling it from ingredients just pulled out of the fridge. The tangy tomato provides the sandwich’s dominant flavor and is complemented by the pleasantly salty and not-too-thick caper mayo. Pickled onions provide a touch of sweetness, while the sprouts on top give some necessary crunch.

Cons: While most brioche has a silky, pillowy texture, this olive oil version tastes dry, then becomes soggy when it comes in contact with the veggies and spreads. The ingredients slip around within the sandwich, so every bite isn’t exactly balanced.

Sloppiness level (1 to 5): 4. Despite its simple list of ingredients, this sandwich has some serious structural problems. In addition to oozing sauce, bits of onion and tendrils of sprouts slip out every time you move the sandwich. Be prepared to regularly reassemble.

Overall score (1 to 5): 4. Slightly bigger than a slider but smaller than your usual burger, this sandwich makes a perfect snack. A fluffier bun would send it over the edge, but the next time you’re hanging around Foggy Bottom and in need of a quick bite, Beefsteak will certainly hit the spot.

Photo by Caroline Jones