Where in Town: Takoma Park-Silver Spring Food Co-op, 201 Ethan Allen Ave., Takoma Park
Price: $12.99 per six-pack
Movin’ On Up
Baltimore’s Oliver Brewing Co. began in 1993 in the cramped basement of what is now Pratt Street Ale House near Camden Yards. Over the years, demand for head brewer Steve Jones’ top-notch English-style beers grew far beyond their availability. Last year, Oliver Brewing relocated operations to a 12,000-square-foot facility that’s triple the size of the old one. The brewery can now supply its three associated Maryland restaurants—Pratt Street Ale House, the Ale House Columbia, and Park Tavern—with enough beer left over to stock local liquor stores. Following its first canning run this March, Oliver released six-packs of Cherry Blossom, a wheat ale with dark cherries, and an espresso brown ale called Creator/Destroyer.
The name refers to the type of espresso grinds used in the beer: “Destroyer” from Ceremony Coffee Roasters. As for “creator?” According to Jones, it comes from an urge to create something positive during an exceptionally negative presidential campaign. In a departure from the usual coffee-stout combo, Jones chose a traditional brown ale recipe featuring double roasted crystal malt from Simpsons, a 150-year-old maltster in Northumberland. The winning combination marries the taste of espresso with sweet caramel malt flavors. Creator/Destroyer smells like caramelized sugar, chocolate, and coffee. At six percent alcohol, the medium-bodied beer is nutty, creamy, and rich with a bitter finish. Look for it on draft or in cans across D.C. and Maryland.
Photo by Tammy Tuck